It’s been about two weeks now that ive been in Europe. I flew into Munich on the evening of April 24th and made my way to Stuttgart by train that evening where I met up with my friend Jochen Perschmann. We headed straight from the train station to Nuremberg, a city right next to the Frankenjura where Jochen goes to school.
The Frankenjura is the name of a fairly large region consisting of green and yellow fields tended by farmers, small picturesque villages, forests, and scattered across it are hundreds of small limestone cliffbands and boulders. It’s similar to Fontainebleau and Leavenworth in that a single days climbing will generally involve a few different areas that are driven between because the distances separating them are too far to walk. The Frankenjura limestone yields primarily pockets and crimps with lots of unusual (to someone outside the frankenjura..) open-handed/split fingered holds. I must admit that I got pretty OWNED in the Frankenjura. Not sure if it was the style not suiting me, it being hot, or me just punting, but besides climbing it was great to see some important climbing history and catch up with my buddy Jochen! I saw Terminator, the first 8A boulder, Action Directe, the first 9a route, the makeshift edges carved into a wooden beam where Gullich, Kauk, and Albert trained, the first 8b+, the first 8c, and maybe some more that I’m forgetting. SO much climbing history is here!