Ridiculous hueco flapper!
Unfortunately I haven’t recovered the media I was hoping to have for this post, but I’ve greased some wheels and pulled some strings to get some good stuff together.
Chris on Crown of Aragorn (V13). He's on Better Eat Your Wheaties right here, which, BTE, is most surely V9 and not V8!
Chris had some great success finishing off both Crown of Aragorn (V13) and Nagual (V13), two serious crimping testpieces. Very nice work Chris! Inspires me to start getting my fingers stronger..
Alsop very impressive were Katha’s ascents of Barefoot on Sacred Ground (V12) and Rumble in the Jungle (V11). Very nice work! I gave a report of her having a killer day on East Mountain a few posts ago, and there is a video of that day below. You can check her blog for video of Rumble and Barefoot (there’s a link on the right side of the page).
Katha topping out Barefoot on Sacred Ground (V12). Notice that the ground is not close to her.. What a badass!
Jorg put many solid efforts into Desperanza (V15?), cruising all of the moves except for THE bone move. On the first day he stuck the bone move, also the day he did Esperanza, he stuck the move from the bottom of Desperanza and then fell (He was talking to us during this attempt, so i’m pretty sure it wasn’t really a serious effort..). Then after a few more days working it he finally got the bone move from the bottom, but fell on the last deadpoint to the jug finish hueco! Despite not sending, I’m sure after his 20+ attempts on the climb he will be feeling VERY strong on roofs in the near future. Never a bad thing..
I couldn't get any pics of myself on The Flame (they are out there somewhere) so here is one of Chris. Photo Credits: Katharina Saurwein
I went back to Slashface a number of times and made progress, but unfortunately was not able to leave with a send! The next time trying the problem I was able to match the crux slot, cut my feet, and hold the swing probably 4 or 5 times without finishing the problem. At this point on the climb, most everyone is able to finish after one or two times reaching this point. Unfortunately, after holding the swing my fingers would get wedged in the crux hold and I wasn’t able to pull them out easily enough to gain the next hold! Frustrating! I did walk away with a send of The Flame (V12) though, which is a mega-classic that I found out about probably around ten years ago. It also felt quite satisfying because I was able to pull it out on my last attempt on a climb on this trip to Hueco. Pulling out under pressure felt quite nice!
My finger after getting stuck a few times in the Slashface slot..
Me on Terre De Sienne (V13)